Winter In Orkney

When most people think of the Orkney Islands, they imagine the "simmer dim"—those endless summer nights where the sun barely dips below the horizon. But there is a secret the locals keep close: winter in the Orkney Islands is arguably the archipelago's most magical season.

As the crowds vanish, a raw, cinematic beauty takes over. From the haunting glow of the Northern Lights to the ancient stone circles standing silent in the frost, Orkney in winter offers an experience that is both wild and profoundly peaceful. If you’ve ever wondered if the far north of Scotland is worth the journey in the colder months, the answer is a resounding yes.

In this guide, we will explore why you should swap the summer heat for the bracing winds, the best things to do, and how to make the most of the short daylight hours.

Why Visit Orkney in Winter?

Visiting the Orkney Islands  during the off-season isn't just about avoiding the queues at Skara Brae. It is about witnessing a landscape that feels truly alive.

• Solitude: You can often have UNESCO World Heritage sites entirely to yourself.

• Beautiful light: The low winter sun creates a "golden hour" that lasts nearly all day (depending on the weather of course), which is perfect for photography.

• The Aurora: Orkney is one of the best places in the UK to see the Aurora Borealis, known locally as the "Merry Dancers."

• Authenticity: With fewer tourists, you get to experience the real pace of island life.

Chasing The Northern Lights

At 59 degrees north, Orkney is the ideal location for seeing the Northern Lights. Because the islands have very little light pollution, you’re able to get a clear view of the winter sky lighting up with the shimmering greens and pinks of the Aurora.

The Best Spots for the Northern Lights

1. Brough of Birsay: A tidal island on the north coast with vast, dark horizons.

2. The Ring of Brodgar: Watching the Aurora dance above 5,000-year-old standing stones is a spiritual experience.

3. Yesnaby Cliffs: High ground with an unobstructed view across the Atlantic.

Pro Tip: Download an Aurora alert app or join the "Orkney Aurora Group" on Facebook for real-time sightings from locals.

Ancient Wonders Without the Crowds

The Heart of Neolithic Orkney is a UNESCO World Heritage site that typically draws thousands during the summer months. It’s made up of four prehistoric sites, each built from stone over 5,000 years ago. The quiet winter months are perfect for appreciating this fascinating glimpse into the past and how they’ve been shaped to withstand thousands of years of Orkney weather.

Skara Brae

Skara Brae is a 5,000-year-old village, known for being the best preserved neolithic settlement in Western Europe. You’ll see all aspects of this ancient way of life, from the stone box beds to the hand-built artefacts they used to hunt, cook and eat with.

Experiencing it during an icy wintery gale or under a blanket of frost helps you truly appreciate the hardiness of the Neolithic people who lived here.

Maeshowe

The highlight of this time of year is the Winter Solstice at Maeshowe. This chambered cairn was designed so perfectly that, for around 6 weeks of winter (usually late November to Mid-January), the setting sun shines directly down the long entrance passage to illuminate the back wall of the tomb.

Planning Note: Book your tickets in advance for the 2pm tour through Historic Scotland to make sure you don’t miss out

Stones of Stenness 

Witness the remains of this ancient ceremonial site, thought to be the earliest henge monument in Britain. Seeing the Standing Stones in winter is a must because you can fully appreciate their endurance against the howling gales and the horizontal rain that accompanies them.

Ring of Brodgar 

The Ring of Brodgar is one of the most iconic sights to see in Orkney. A mysterious and ancient stone circle, it’s an atmospheric experience to witness the winter sun breaking through the clouds above it or, if you’re lucky, in the middle of a snow storm. 

You can learn about its fascinating history by joining the free Ring of Brodgar Walk on Thursdays from 1-2pm.

Winter Wildlife: Pups and Plumes

While the puffins leave in August, winter brings a different cast of characters to the islands. Here are three types of local wildlife that are really special to witness in this quieter season:

• Grey Seal Pups: In late autumn and early winter (November–December), the beaches are filled with fluffy white seal pups.

• Migratory Birds: Look out for Great Northern Divers, Slavonian Grebes, and the haunting "calloo" cry of Long-tailed Ducks in Scapa Flow.

• Mountain Hares: On the island of Hoy, the mountain hares turn snowy white to blend into the winter hills.

Planning tip: Book a Seal Pup Walk from October to December and experience a local’s guide to spotting the pups.

As ever, take care when looking out for these animals and birds. Seals are protective of their young, so be sure to keep your distance and respect their space. It’s a chance to be fully in the moment and appreciate the wonder of nature.

Orcadian Traditions: The Ba' Game

If you visit during Christmas or New Year, you will witness one of the most intense traditions in the world: The Ba'.

Held on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day in Kirkwall, this is a massive, chaotic game of street football involving hundreds of men. The "Uppies" (those born south of the Cathedral) and the "Doonies" (those born north) battle for hours to push a leather ball to their respective ends of the town. It is a spectacle of grit and community pride that hasn't changed in centuries.

Practical Tips for Your Winter Trip to Orkney

Winter in Orkney is invigorating, but it requires preparation. Changeable weather and less daylight hours means having to plan ahead to get the most out of your trip. 

Some places have reduced opening times during the winter season too, so always check to avoid disappointment. 

I’ve shared my four top practical tips for getting the most out of winter in Orkney below:

1. Dressing for the Elements

The temperature rarely drops much below freezing due to the Gulf Stream, but the wind is fierce which makes it feel much colder than it is. If you’re heading outdoors, here’s what you’ll need:

• The Layering System: Thermals, a fleece, and a high-quality windproof/waterproof jacket are essential. 

• Footwear: Bring sturdy, waterproof boots. Many paths (like the Ring of Brodgar) can become boggy. And beaches might have piles of seaweed or more rocks than usual.

• Hat and Gloves: A warm wooly hat is another must, which also protects your ears (or lugs as we call them in orcadian) from the wind chill. Don’t forget a pair of thermal gloves for keeping your hands warm too.

2. Managing Daylight

In December, you will only have about 6 hours of daylight (roughly 9:00 am to 3:00 pm). Plan your outdoor activities for the morning and keep the museums, distilleries, and cosy pubs for the late afternoon.

3. Getting Around

Ferries and flights can be affected by winter gales. Check the latest service updates from the ferries, or Loganair if you’re flying, before you set off so you can be prepared if there’s any disruption.

• NorthLink Ferries, Pentland Ferries and Orkney Ferries operate year-round, but always check the weather forecast 24 hours before, and on the day of travel. 

• Car Hire: Having a car is highly recommended as public transport to remote sites is reduced in winter, and there aren’t always bus shelters to wait in.

Planning tip: Check updates on the ‘OIC roads’ page on Facebook for any weather related disruption. Watch out for icy conditions, and be aware that the Churchill barriers may close during strong winds. 

4. Food and Drink

Warm up with a dram at the Highland Park or Scapa distilleries. For a hearty meal, look for Orkney Beef and a classic Orkney fudge cheesecake for dessert on local menus—there is nothing better than local produce by the fire.

For lunch, why not come and visit us at our very own Barrier View Cafe in St Marys? Warm up with a freshly made soup and sandwich, and enjoy a coffee and something sweet as you enjoy the view of the waves over the barriers.

Winter Itinerary Ideas

 

Come and Embrace the Wild

Winter in the Orkney Islands isn't for those seeking a tan, but it’s perfect fora soul-stirring adventure.

It’s a time when the veil between the modern world and ancient history feels thinnest.

 Whether you are standing in the center of a stone circle under a canopy of stars or watching the Atlantic waves crash against the cliffs, Orkney will leave you feeling recharged and inspired.