Seasonal Orkney Guide

You’re dreaming of Orkney.

Of standing stones that predate the pyramids, of dramatic sea cliffs teeming with puffins, and of skies that stretch into an endless twilight.

But one question stands between your dream and your booking confirmation: when is the absolute best time to visit Orkney?

Ask a dozen different people and you’ll get a dozen different answers.

Some will swear by the magical "simmer dim" of summer, while others are captivated by the wild, dramatic storms of winter.

The truth is, the "best" time to visit Orkney depends entirely on the kind of experience you're seeking.

This guide is your definitive answer.

We’ll break down the pros and cons of each season, covering everything from weather and wildlife to festivals and crowds.

By the end, you'll know exactly when to plan your perfect Orcadian adventure.

Orkney's Climate: A Quick Word on the Weather

Before we dive in, let's talk about Orkney's famous weather. The islands have a temperate maritime climate, which means no extreme highs or lows.

However, it also means the weather is famously changeable. You can genuinely experience four seasons in one day!

The one constant is the wind, which is a feature of the landscape year-round. Packing layers, waterproofs, and a sturdy windproof jacket is non-negotiable, no matter when you visit.

Summer (June - August): The Season of Endless Light

For the classic Orkney experience, summer is king. This is the season of the "simmer dim," a beautiful, lingering twilight that replaces true darkness. Picture finishing your dinner and then heading out at 10 PM to explore ancient stone circles in the ethereal evening light.

Why You'll Love It:

• Maximum Daylight: With up to 19 hours of daylight, you have ample time to explore every corner of the islands. The sun sets late and rises early, making for magical sunrises and sunsets at iconic sites like the Ring of Brodgar. We love visiting these stones we designed this stunning standing stones collection.

• Wonderful Wildlife: Summer is peak puffin season! These comical, colourful birds nest on cliffs at places like the Brough of Birsay and Westray until early August. You'll also see cliffs packed with guillemots, razorbills, and fulmars.

• Vibrant Festivals: Orkney's cultural calendar is buzzing. The renowned St Magnus International Festival brings world-class music and arts to the islands in June, while a series of local regattas and agricultural shows offer a real taste of island life.

• Best Weather: Statistically, these are the mildest and driest months, offering the best conditions for walking, cycling, and enjoying Orkney's stunning beaches.

Things to Consider:

• The Crowds: This is peak tourist season. You'll be sharing the main attractions like Skara Brae and Maeshowe with many other visitors.

• The Price: Accommodation and travel costs are at their highest.

• Book Ahead! It is absolutely essential to book flights, ferries, accommodation, and rental cars many months (sometimes even a year) in advance. Popular tours and restaurants also fill up quickly. 

Actionable Tip: To escape the crowds, visit popular mainland sites early in the morning or late in the "simmer dim" evening. Alternatively, take a ferry to one of the outer isles like Hoy, Rousay, or Sanday for a quieter experience.

Autumn (September - November): For Photographers and Archaeologists

As the summer crowds disperse, a different kind of magic descends upon Orkney.

The low autumn sun casts a golden light across the landscape, making the ancient stones and rolling hills look even more mystical. It's a quieter, more contemplative time to visit.

Why You'll Love It:

• Fewer People, More Atmosphere: Imagine exploring the 5,000-year-old village of Skara Brae with only a handful of other people. Autumn offers a more personal and atmospheric connection to Orkney's incredible history.

• Photographer's Paradise: The quality of light is simply spectacular. Stormy, dramatic skies create a breathtaking backdrop for the Neolithic monuments and rugged coastline.

• Wildlife Wonders: While the puffins will have departed, autumn is peak seal pupping season. Head to the coast, particularly on islands like Sanday, to see fluffy white seal pups (but always keep a respectful distance!). It's also a key time for spotting migratory birds.

• Value for Money: With the peak season over, you can often find better deals on accommodation and travel.

Things to Consider:

• Changeable Weather: The weather becomes increasingly unpredictable, with a higher chance of rain and strong winds.

• Reduced Hours: Some tourist-focused cafes, galleries, and attractions may begin to operate on reduced winter hours or close for the season. Always check opening times in advance.

Actionable Tip: Pack your best waterproofs and embrace the weather. A windswept walk along the cliffs at Yesnaby followed by a dram of whisky in a cosy pub is the quintessential autumn Orkney experience. There's no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing (some exclusions do apply to this)

Winter (December - February): For the Hardy and the Hopeful

Winter in Orkney is not for the faint of heart. It’s a time of wild storms, short days, and raw, untamed beauty. But for the adventurous soul, it offers rewards that no other season can match.

Why You'll Love It:

• The Northern Lights: Orkney's northern latitude and lack of light pollution make it one of the best places in the UK to witness the Aurora Borealis. Known locally as the "Merry Dancers," seeing the sky dance with green and purple light is an unforgettable experience. 

• Ultimate Tranquillity: There are typically fewer tourists at this time. This is the time for true peace, solitude, and introspection.

• Dramatic Seascapes: Storm-watching is a spectacular pastime here. Witnessing the power of the Atlantic Ocean crashing against the cliffs is a humbling and exhilarating experience.

• Local Culture: Winter is when Orkney truly belongs to the Orcadians. You can experience unique traditions like the Kirkwall Ba', a chaotic and historic street football game held on Christmas Day and New Year's Day.

Things to Consider:

• Very Short Days: Daylight is limited to about 6-7 hours, so you need to plan your outdoor activities carefully.

• The Weather: It will be cold, wet, and very windy. Travel can be disrupted by ferry and flight cancellations. Also, the Churchill barriers can be closed at times due to winds and waves.

• Closures: Many visitor attractions, cafes, and shops will be closed for the season. The core archaeological sites managed by Historic Environment Scotland usually remain open, but with shorter hours. Although our cafe will still be open!

Actionable Tip: Be flexible. Have indoor plans (like visiting the St Magnus Cathedral or the Orkney Museum) ready for when the weather is too wild. Download an aurora forecast app and be ready to head out into the dark at a moment's notice.

Spring (March - May): A Time of Awakening

Spring breathes new life into the archipelago. The days rapidly lengthen, the landscape bursts with colour, and the air is filled with the sound of birdsong. It's a season of vibrant renewal and exciting beginnings.

Why You'll Love It:

• Wildlife's Grand Return: The cliffs once again become bustling seabird cities. While puffins arrive in late April or early May, you'll be greeted by thousands of other seabirds. It's also lambing season, and the fields are full of adorable, leaping lambs.

• Floral Displays: The landscape is carpeted with wildflowers, from primroses and celandines to the rare and beautiful Primula Scotica.

• The Orkney Folk Festival: Held in late May, this world-renowned festival is a spectacular celebration of music and culture that takes over the entire archipelago. If you love folk music, this is the time to visit.

• A Perfect Balance: Spring offers the perfect compromise: steadily improving weather and daylight, but without the peak-season crowds and prices of summer.

Things to Consider:

• Mixed Weather: Early spring can still feel very wintery. Don't pack your thermals away just yet!

• Book for the Festival: If you plan to visit during the Orkney Folk Festival, you must book everything—tickets, travel, and accommodation—the moment they are released, as it sells out incredibly fast.

Actionable Tip: For birdwatchers, a trip to RSPB Marwick Head is a must. The cliff-top path provides sensational views of nesting seabirds. Remember to drive carefully and be aware of lambs on the country roads.

The Verdict: So, When Should You Go?

As you've seen, Orkney's "best" season is a matter of personal preference.

• For long days, puffins, and festivals: Choose Summer.

• For atmospheric archaeology and photography with fewer crowds: Choose Autumn.

• For the Northern Lights and a wild, solitary escape: Choose Winter.

• For a balance of wildlife, culture, and manageable crowds: Choose Spring.

No matter when you decide to visit, Orkney will leave its mark on you.

Its timeless landscapes and rich culture have a way of capturing the heart and calling you back again and again.