Northern Lights in Orkney

Imagine standing in the center of a 5,000-year-old stone circle (if you're allowed), the air cold and perfectly still. You look north, and the horizon begins to glow.

Slowly, silently, pillars of green and violet light begin to dance across the sky, illuminating the ancient megaliths that have watched this same celestial show for millennia.

This isn’t Iceland or Norway. This is Orkney.

Orkney is world-famous for its Neolithic heart, a UNESCO World Heritage site that speaks of a rich, ancient history. But when the sun sets and the long winter nights draw in, Orkney offers another, more ethereal wonder: the Aurora Borealis.

Locally known as the Merry Dancers, seeing the Northern Lights in Orkney is an experience that connects you not just to the cosmos, but to the islands' deep, mystical past.

But let's be honest. Seeing them isn't as simple as just stepping outside. It requires planning, patience, and a bit of luck. You’ve probably asked:

• Is Orkney far enough north to get a good show?

• When is the absolute best time to even try?

• Where do I go to get away from lights and see them over the famous stones?

You’ve come to the right place.

This is your comprehensive guide to chasing the aurora in Orkney, turning a hopeful guess into a strategic hunt.

And as a bonus, we are currently in a period of Solar Maximum (2024-2025), the peak of an 11-year solar cycle, meaning your chances of seeing a spectacular display are the best they’ve been in over a decade.

There has never been a better time to try.

Why Orkney? 

When people plan an aurora trip, they often default to the "big names" like Tromsø or Reykjavik.

But Orkney has several unique advantages that make it a world-class contender for seeing the Northern Lights.

 

1. Perfect Latitude: At 59° North, Orkney sits on an ideal parallel. It's on the same latitude as parts of Alaska and Norway, placing it directly in the "auroral oval" during strong geomagnetic storms.

2. Unbeatable Backdrops: This is Orkney's trump card. What’s more magical than seeing the aurora? Seeing it frame the mystical Ring of Brodgar, silhouetting the Standing Stones of Stenness, or washing the sky above a coastal broch. You are literally watching the cosmos from a place of ancient human history.

3. Incredible Dark Skies: Once you are just a few minutes outside of Kirkwall or Stromness, the light pollution drops to almost zero. The islands' low-lying landscape and vast sea horizons (especially to the north) create a perfect, unobstructed cinematic screen for the sky. The island of North Ronaldsay is even an officially designated "International Dark Sky Community."

The combination of geographic luck, ancient history, and pristine darkness makes the Orkney aurora a truly unforgettable spectacle.

 

When is the Best Time to See the Northern Lights in Orkney?

Timing is everything. You cannot see the aurora in Orkney during the summer months (May, June, July) due to the "simmer dim," the local term for the near-constant daylight.

To successfully see the Mirrie Dancers, you need three key ingredients to align: Darkness, Clear Skies, and Solar Activity.

1. The Best Time of Year: The "Aurora Season"

 

The main aurora season in Orkney runs from late September to late March.

The sweet spot is during the months closest to the equinoxes (October/November and February/March), which often see a (statistically) higher level of geomagnetic activity. However, the deep darkness of December and January provides the longest possible viewing window.

Pro-Tip (Urgent!): We are currently in or approaching Solar Maximum. The sun’s activity runs in an 11-year cycle, and 2024-2025 is the peak. This means more solar flares, more solar wind, and a dramatically increased frequency and intensity of auroral displays. If seeing the aurora is on your bucket list, this winter and next are your golden opportunity.

2. The Best Time of Night

While an exceptionally strong storm can be visible as soon as it's dark, the most common viewing time is between 10:00 PM and 2:00 AM (GMT). Be prepared to stay up late and be patient.

3. The Best Lunar Phase

This is a frequently overlooked tip. A full moon is so bright it can wash out all but the most powerful auroral storms.

Plan your trip (if possible) for the week leading up to a New Moon. The darker the sky, the more detail and colour your eyes (and camera) will pick up.

Your Aurora-Hunting Toolkit: How to Read the Forecasts

The aurora is notoriously fickle. A display can be predicted, but it’s never guaranteed. To maximise your chances, you need to become a "space weather" watcher. Here’s what you need to check.

1. The Weather Forecast (The #1 Hurdle)

This is the most important forecast. A KP9 "super storm" is happening? 

• What to use: Use the Met Office or a reliable app like YR.no.

• What to look for: You need clear, cloud-free skies to the north. Sometimes, broken cloud can be atmospheric, but clear is always better.

2. The Aurora Forecast (The Activity)

This forecast tells you how strong the aurora is likely to be. The key metric you'll hear about is the KP Index.

• What is the KP Index? It’s a simple 0-9 scale of geomagnetic activity.

  • KP 0-2: Calm.

  • KP 3: Low activity. Might be visible on a very clear night as a faint glow on the northern horizon.

  • KP 4: This is the magic number for Orkney. At KP4, you have a good chance of seeing a visible arc and some pillars on the horizon.

  • KP 5-6: Active! This is when you can expect visible, dancing curtains and colours overhead. 

  • KP 7-9: Major storm. Rare, but this is when the sky will erupt in colour, visible across the entire UK.

But of course, it really doesn't matter what strength the aurora is, if there is a blanket of cloud across the sky.

3. The Best Apps and Websites

Don't guess. Use real-time data.

• AuroraWatch UK: Run by Lancaster University, this is the definitive source for the UK. Sign up for their free "Amber" or "Red" alerts.

• My Aurora Forecast (App): A great all-in-one app that shows you the KP index, cloud cover, and a map of the auroral oval.

• The "Orkney Aurora Group" on Facebook: This is the ultimate insider tip. This is a community of local Orkney aurora hunters who post real-time updates and photos. If something is happening, they will be the first to know.

The 7 Best Places to See the Northern Lights in Orkney

You’ve checked the apps, the sky is clear, and the forecast is a solid KP5. It’s time to go.

The golden rule is simple: Get away from the light pollution of Kirkwall and Stromness, and find a location with a clear, dark view to the north.

Often, the best Northern Lights I've seen happen by happy chance - and I'm parked up in a layby just watching them dance.

Here are the best, most iconic spots on the Orkney mainland.

1. The Ring of Brodgar

• Why it's perfect: This is the shot. The massive, flat-topped stones create the ultimate ancient silhouette against a sky of dancing green. The site is open 24/7, has a car park, and offers a 360-degree view, though your best bet is looking north through the circle.

• Location: Mainland, between Stromness and Dounby.

2. The Standing Stones of Stenness

• Why it's perfect: Just down the road from Brodgar, these stones are taller and more jagged, offering a different but equally dramatic foreground. The Watch Stone, a single monolith by the road, is also a fantastic subject.

• Location: Mainland, near the Ring of Brodgar.

3. Brough of Birsay

• Why it's perfect: Head to the far northwestern point of the mainland. The car park at the Brough of Birsay (a tidal island) offers an incredibly dark, north-facing sea horizon. There is zero light pollution here. But please, do not attempt to go over to the Broch of Birsay - don't be the guy that needs rescuing.

• Location: Birsay, Mainland.

4. Yesnaby Cliffs

• Why it's perfect: While the cliffs themselves face west, walking the coastal path gives you a dark sky and the potential to capture the aurora reflecting in the sea or silhouetting the Yesnaby Castle sea stack.

• Location: West Mainland, near Stromness. Just be mindful of where you are - Yesnaby in the dark is no place to go close to the edge of the cliffs.

5. Skara Brae / Bay of Skaill

• Why it's perfect: The large, north-facing Bay of Skaill is a naturally dark amphitheatre. You can park in the Skara Brae car park and walk down to the beach to watch the show over the water.

• Location: West Mainland. The beach car park is your best bet - but bear in mind, the beach is west facing.

6. Wideford Hill

• Why it's perfect: If you're in Kirkwall and need a quick, accessible spot, drive to the top of Wideford Hill. It gives you elevation, gets you above the town's lights, and provides a clear northern view over Kirkwall Bay.

• Location: Just outside Kirkwall.

6. Italian Chapel

• Why it's perfect: Near to our cafe and workshop, the Italian Chapel is a lovely place to see the Northern Lights. Complete with the Chapel's story of love and resilience, it's a fitting place to capture such a spectacle.

• Location: After the 1st Barrier, just past St Mary's. It's well signposted.

7. The Outer Isles (Pro-Tip)

• Why it's perfect: If you are serious about darkness, take a short ferry trip. The island of North Ronaldsay is an official International Dark Sky Community. The darkness and solitude here are absolute, offering a truly immersive experience.

Those are just some suggestions - we even saw the Northern Lights as we were watching the Christmas traditional Ba game.

How to Photograph the Orkney Aurora (For DSLRs and Smartphones!)

You saw them! But how do you capture them? The Northern Lights are fainter to the naked eye than they appear in photos. Your camera is the key to revealing their true, vibrant colour.

For DSLR / Mirrorless Camera Users (The "Pro" Setup)

1. A Tripod is NON-NEGOTIABLE: You will be using long exposures. You cannot hand-hold your camera.

2. Use a Wide-Angle, "Fast" Lens: Something between 14mm and 35mm is ideal. Use a lens with a low f-stop (e.g., f/1.8, f/2.8, or f/4) to let in as much light as possible.

3. Go Full Manual Mode (M):

   • Focus: Set your focus to Manual (MF). Aim at the brightest star (or a very distant light) and use your camera's "live view" zoomed in to adjust the focus ring until the star is a tiny, sharp pinprick of light. This is "infinity focus." Tape it down with gaffer tape if you need to.

   • Aperture: Set it to its widest setting (lowest f-number, e.g., f/2.8).

   • ISO: Start at ISO 1600 or ISO 3200.

   • Shutter Speed: This is the one you'll vary. Start with 10 seconds.

4. Take a Test Shot.

   • Too dark? Increase your shutter speed to 15 or 20 seconds, or bump the ISO to 6400.

   • Lights "smearing" or stars trailing? Your shutter speed is too long. Shorten it.

   • Too bright/blown out? Lower your ISO or shorten the shutter speed.

5. Use a Timer or Remote Shutter: Set a 2-second timer or use a remote. Pressing the shutter button, even on a tripod, will cause a wobble.

6. Shoot in RAW: This captures all the data, giving you the best flexibility to edit the colours and shadows in software like Lightroom later.

For Smartphone Users

Modern phones like newer iPhones, Google Pixels, and Samsungs have incredible "Night Modes" that can capture the aurora.

1. A TRIPOD IS STILL NON-NEGOTIABLE: You must keep your phone perfectly still. Get a cheap phone tripod or clamp.

2. Use Night Mode: When your phone detects darkness, it will automatically suggest "Night Mode" (often a yellow icon). Let it. It will automatically choose a long exposure (e.g., 3-10 seconds).

3. Go Manual (If You Can): If your phone has a "Pro" or "Manual" mode, use it. Set the Focus to infinity (often a "mountain" icon), ISO to 800-1600, and the Shutter Speed (S) to 5-15 seconds.

4. Turn OFF Your Flash: It will do nothing but ruin the photo and your night vision.

5. Bring a Power Bank: Cold weather kills phone batteries. A portable power bank is essential.

What to Pack: Staying Warm on the Hunt

You will be standing in a dark, cold, windy field for hours. Do not underestimate the Orkney winter. There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.

• Layers, Layers, Layers: Start with a thermal base layer (merino wool is best), add a fleece mid-layer, and top it with a windproof and waterproof outer jacket.

• Insulated Trousers: Waterproof overtrousers or ski/snowboard pants are a great idea.

• Warm Hat and Gloves: A warm, windproof beanie and insulated gloves (mittens are even warmer) are essential.

• Good Boots: Waterproof hiking boots with warm wool socks.

• A Hot Drink: A flask of hot tea, coffee, or hot chocolate is a lifesaver and a huge morale booster at 1 AM.

• A Red Light Torch: Use a head-torch with a red light setting. Red light doesn't ruin your night vision (or the night vision of other photographers around you) like a bright white light does.

Managing Expectations: A Final Word of Advice

One last, important point. Many photos you see of the aurora are long exposures, which capture more colour and intensity than the human eye can see.

A mild (KP3/4) display often looks like a faint, greyish-white cloud or arc to the naked eye. It can be easy to miss if you're not looking for it. Use your camera for a 10-second test shot—if it shows up green, you've found it!

During a strong storm (KP5+), you will absolutely see the colours and the dancing movement with your own eyes.

But the thrill is in the hunt. Even seeing a faint, ghostly arc over the Stones of Stenness is a magical experience you will never forget.

Your Orkney Aurora Adventure Awaits

Seeing the Northern Lights in Orkney is more than just a celestial show. It’s a bridge to the past, a moment of profound wonder shared with the ancient people who built monuments to the sky 5,000 years ago.

With the 2024/2025 Solar Maximum upon us, your chances have never been better. So, check the forecasts, pack your warmest clothes, grab your camera, and get ready to hunt the elusive Mirrie Dancers.